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Namche Bazaar to Gokyo
To rach the Gokyo valley, leave Namche on one of the two trails mentioned at the start of trek 18, and walk as far as Sanasa. If you're travelling this way on a Saturday there is likely to be a raucous party atmosphere at the collection of teachouses here, as women from surrounding villages stop to gossip and imbibe kettles of chang on their way home after the market in Manche. From here the Gokyo route heads off northwards above the Khumbu valley and climbs steeply to a prominent stupa at the Mong La (3900m/12796ft) before descending to the Dudh Khosi at Phortse Tenga.
Take your time as you make your way up this valley. The ascent is steep and it's all too easy to get ahead of your body's acclimatisation. It is also a stunningly beautiful place with waterfalls cascading from above, peaceful groves of rhododendron and birch trees, and occasional summer grazing pastures or yersa. There are many more lodges along this section of trail than there were when I first walked it, allowing you plenty of tea-stops and a greater degree of flexiblity when planning your overnight halts.
Beyond Machhermo, the trail climbs the ridge above the Yeti Lodge, before briefly descending to Phangor and then beginning the final steep ascent up the terminal moraine of the Ngozumpa Glacier to Gokyo. By the time you reach the first lake at 4650m (15257ft) your travails are almost over, as the path then levels out and enters the ablation zone on the west of the longest glacier in Nepal. The views get increasingly breathtaking as you ascend, with Kang Tega to the south and Cho-Oyu to the north particularly drawing the eye. Be sure to ascend to the crest of the lateral moraine for a look at the chaotic, boulder strewn surface of the Ngozumpa Glacier and to contemplate your way across a couple of days hence. Gokyo is reached in less than an hour from the first lake, beyond the second on the shores of the third.
To rach the Gokyo valley, leave Namche on one of the two trails mentioned at the start of trek 18, and walk as far as Sanasa. If you're travelling this way on a Saturday there is likely to be a raucous party atmosphere at the collection of teachouses here, as women from surrounding villages stop to gossip and imbibe kettles of chang on their way home after the market in Manche. From here the Gokyo route heads off northwards above the Khumbu valley and climbs steeply to a prominent stupa at the Mong La (3900m/12796ft) before descending to the Dudh Khosi at Phortse Tenga.
Take your time as you make your way up this valley. The ascent is steep and it's all too easy to get ahead of your body's acclimatisation. It is also a stunningly beautiful place with waterfalls cascading from above, peaceful groves of rhododendron and birch trees, and occasional summer grazing pastures or yersa. There are many more lodges along this section of trail than there were when I first walked it, allowing you plenty of tea-stops and a greater degree of flexiblity when planning your overnight halts.
Beyond Machhermo, the trail climbs the ridge above the Yeti Lodge, before briefly descending to Phangor and then beginning the final steep ascent up the terminal moraine of the Ngozumpa Glacier to Gokyo. By the time you reach the first lake at 4650m (15257ft) your travails are almost over, as the path then levels out and enters the ablation zone on the west of the longest glacier in Nepal. The views get increasingly breathtaking as you ascend, with Kang Tega to the south and Cho-Oyu to the north particularly drawing the eye. Be sure to ascend to the crest of the lateral moraine for a look at the chaotic, boulder strewn surface of the Ngozumpa Glacier and to contemplate your way across a couple of days hence. Gokyo is reached in less than an hour from the first lake, beyond the second on the shores of the third.
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